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The nail salon.
A hallowed place for many—and one that we came to miss greatly during the most intense parts of the pandemic when we really weren’t leaving our homes. Perhaps you mastered some version of at-home gel removal and manicures but now you’re happy to return to a place where a professional is taking care of business.
(And if you love to do your nails at home, much of this advice about manicure tools will apply to you too!)
While many factors—like location, cost of services, and ambience—may weigh into the nail salon you choose, safety and cleanliness must be near the top of the list, as well.
It’s always important to take note of (or ask about) the safety practices employed by your salon to prevent the spread of bacteria and other microbes.
First, it’s helpful to understand a few of the key terms that are factors in the hygiene practices of someplace like a nail salon.
Now, we can get into more specifics about what to look out for when picking a spot for your manicure or pedicure.
First impressions count big time here. When you walk in, ask yourself a few questions.
You want to make sure that everything used on your hands or feet is being sanitized and disinfected properly. And it’s absolutely fine to ask about how this is done if you’re not clear. Don’t be embarrassed!
Now, sometimes salons use one-time use products, meaning they are only used on one client and then thrown away—or given to the client to take home. This can often include items such as emery boards, orange sticks, pumices, buffers, and toe separators. If items like this are being reused, there may be a cleanliness issue.
If you are concerned about the salon adhering to disinfecting guidelines and want to take your health into your own hands, consider bringing your own stainless steel tools and sanitizing them at home by cleaning them in hot, soapy water, boiling, and then drying and storing them in a dry place. Also, make sure that you never visit a salon if you have an open wound or any active infections in the area where you are receiving your service, as this could put you at risk for developing a skin or nail infection. Last (but not least), never ignore abnormalities that appear after a salon service. If you are concerned about an issue—be it an allergy to a product or a possible infection—then seek care from a board-certified dermatologist immediately.
Obviously being eco-conscious and caring about the environment and sustainability are important factors in making decisions about where you spend your money in all parts of modern life—and that includes your nails and nail care.
Items that the manufacturer designs to be disposed of after one use on a single client are called “disposable” or “single-use”. Reusing these items is considered an unsanitary, improper and unprofessional practice. Some additional examples of disposable items are cotton balls, gauze pads, wooden implements, disposable towels, toe separators, tissues, wooden sticks, and certain abrasive files and buffers. Items damaged during the cleaning and disinfecting process are considered single-use and must be discarded after every client.
While one-time use products are a way for nail salons to stay hygienic, and efficient, they aren’t always the best for the planet Earth as they create more waste. This is yet another reason that bringing your own tools from home can be a great idea. A file like the new Dr. Dana Precision Glass Nail File is non-porous and naturally hygienic, making it a great option. Plus, it helps reduce snags by creating a smooth nail edge. If you do bring your own tools, just be sure that you follow the manufacturer’s instructions to properly clean any items after each use.
Whether you realized it at the time, you have very likely suffered from an ingrown nail—and even more likely, an ingrown toenail. They can be painful and can cause larger issues if left untreated. So what causes ingrown toenails exactly, how can you tell if you have one, and what can you do about it?
Let’s get into it all.
What is an ingrown nail?
An ingrown nail—which is medically referred to as onychocryptosis—is when the corner or edge of the nail embeds in the surrounding skin. It most commonly affects the big toenail because the nail has sharp edges and when it pierces the surrounding nail fold tissue it can begin to grow into the skin.
Are ingrown nails more common on the hands or feet?
Ingrown toenails are definitely more common, although an ingrown nail can also occur on the fingers. With fingernails, the issue usually develops in people who have a nail dystrophy called a pincer nail. This means the fingernail has a very exaggerated over-curvature which can cause it to grown into the skin surrounding the nail more easily.
What are some of the most common causes of ingrown nails?
There are a number of factors that can contribute to causing an ingrown nail. These can include:
What are the symptoms of an ingrown nail?
The nail plate has sharp edges, so when it embeds into the skin around your nail, it can result in significant pain, redness at the surrounding skin, inflammation, and swelling. When the embedded nail is not removed, a granuloma—aka a mass of vascular tissue—can develop in response to the trauma.
What does an ingrown nail look like?
An ingrown nail can look like a growth because it is the body’s way of attempting to wall off the sharp object that is piercing the skin. In addition to the nail digging into the nail fold, there is also a heap of tissue that develops overlying the site where the nail is embedded. Other signs of an ingrown nail include swelling, redness and sometimes drainage or pus (if infected).
What should I do if I think I have an ingrown nail?
Can nail techs do anything to help ingrown nails?
Many nail technicians are very proficient and skilled at caring for clients who suffer from chronic ingrown nails. Sometimes a simple clipping of the embedded section will create immediate relief by removing the embedded segment.
When it comes to trimming the toenails, nails are best cut straight across, as opposed to on a curve. This will prevent embedding or ingrown nails and you should feel free to ask your nail technician to do this for you.
This means that shape wise, a square would be preferred to round—although squoval (square with a bit of filing on the edge) is totally okay, too. Also, it is important to not cut the nail too short as that will make it more prone to embedding into the skin. Those who suffer from ingrown nails should allow their toenails to grow a bit longer than is typical.
How can you tell if an ingrown toenail or fingernail has caused an infection?
When infected, there will be pus, or purulent drainage, around the area. And there can also be significant swelling, warmth, and extreme tenderness.
When should you seek a doctor’s help for an ingrown nail? How will a doctor treat it?
You should see your provider as soon as possible if you develop an ingrown toenail and you have any of the following conditions:
When ingrown nails occur often or if have a significant impact on your ability to move around, participate in activities, and are chronically painful, it is time to see a podiatrist or a board-certified dermatologist.
Most of the time, ingrown toenails heal without surgery. However, in more severe cases, your healthcare provider may need to remove part of the nail with a procedure called a nail avulsion. Surgery keeps the edge of the nail from growing inward and cutting into the skin. For children who have persistent infections, the permanent removal of a portion of the nail can also help.
During a partial nail avulsion, your provider injects a numbing medicine into your toe and then cuts away a portion of the embedded toenail. For recurrent ingrown nails these avulsion procedures can be done permanently with the assistance of a chemical to kill the nail root. This procedure is called a matricectomy and will enable the nail to subsequently grow in more narrowly which eliminates the risk of chronic embedding.
When an infection is present, it will be important for your doctor to drain and culture the infection. There is also a chance your treatment may include an oral antibiotic.
Listen, gel manicures are great for many, many reasons: the extra shine and the way they last without chipping, just to name a couple. But have you ever really thought about the science behind a gel mani and the effects it can have your nails? We thought so. But that’s where we come in because we love helping you figure out ways to have your healthiest, most beautiful nails—whether you use gel polish or not.
What is a gel manicure?
Gel polish technology is unique because it paints on like traditional nail lacquer, but the gel has a chemical composition that enables it to harden—or cure—to a glossy finish using a UV light. This means you don’t have to sit and wait while your polish dries. In addition, gel manis typically last two to three weeks and are much more chip-proof than a regular manicure or pedicure.
How much are gel manicures?
Prices will vary on gel manicures depending on where you live and the type of nail salon you choose. But they are typically about $5-$10 more expensive than a regular manicure. This often lands around $35.
Will getting gel nails cause damage?
Yes, gel manicures can result in a thinning of the nails. The Miami School of Medicine conducted a study that used ultrasound technology to demonstrate that that this was a possible side effect of gel manis. However, the authors of the study concluded that it was unclear whether the source of the thinning was due to the acetone soak required to remove the gel or the actual chemical composition of the gel polish itself.
Another cause may be if the gels are incorrectly removed. Over the many years of her dermatology practice, Dr. Dana Stern has observed that most of the damage from gel manicures occurs during the removal process which can be highly variable.
What is the proper method of gel removal?
If you are at a salon, ask how the product will be removed and make sure they won’t be using a gritty file, sander, or another similar tool to vigorously scrape the product off. These methods can cause tremendous—and sometimes irreversible—damage to the nail, as well as the cuticle and the nail matrix, the area where your nail starts to grow.
The companies that make these gel products have very little control over whether their products are being removed properly. Gel polish should come off easily after soaking in acetone. If it is not easy, something is wrong. Remember that acetone is also extremely drying to the nail and surrounding skin, but it is necessary in order to remove gels and many other artificial nail applications.
How often should I get gel manicures if I want to keep my nails healthy?
Dr. Dana’s advice is to enjoy the occasional gel manicure or pedicure before a big trip or a special event where chips are going to be a nuisance. But you should avoid doing them every two weeks, as this will lead to nail damage and dehydration. Dehydration also occurs from the long acetone soaks required to remove the product.
Okay, but what if I do continuously get gel manicures?
Dr. Dana reports that she sees tons of women in her office who get regular soak-off gel manicures, and many have the damage mentioned above like thinning of the nail plate or dehydrated and brittle nails. But some seem to tolerate these gel manicures and acetone soak removal with very little negative effect. The removal process is key here and we want to reiterate that this is often where significant damage can occur.
You also want to make sure you’re caring for your nails in between gel manicures. Just like we need to deep condition our hair from time to time, to help it recover from all the heat and chemicals we apply to it, we need to do similar treatments to ensure healthy, beautiful nails.
How can I get my nails back in shape if they have suffered damage from gel manicures?
First, you will want to take a break from gel manis and regular polish altogether. This is the perfect time to take care of what Dr. Dana refers to as our “nail canvas”. When you do resume polish or gels or dips, the underlying nail will be healthier and stronger.
While you’re on a break from the salon, you can do a lot to bolster the health of your nails. Anytime is a good time for Dr. Dana’s 3-step Nail Renewal System, but especially when you’re giving your nails a rest from gel polish and looking for an effective nail rehab solution. The easy-to-use system creates a glossy, natural nail in just 10 minutes—no polish required. This way your nails can look beautiful and presentable, as if you’ve gotten a natural nail mani.
What else should I be looking for in products to help rejuvenate nails that may be damaged by gel polish and acetone soak removal?
When taking a break from manicures, it is vital to have a good understanding of product ingredients so that you know what products to look for to enhance nail and cuticle health. There are loads of products on the market that claim that they help brittle, weak, dry, and dehydrated nails and cuticles.
Here are a few ingredients that will help your nails:
Just like you care for your skin, don’t neglect your nail health. Your nails are a significant part of your appearance and regular maintenance will give you great results, whether you decide to start getting gel manicures again or not.
Who among us hasn’t had a nail break at a very annoying moment like right before a big meeting or special event? Sometimes it’s a mere inconvenience or you think it looks bad, but occasionally a broken nail can be painful. What most of us often don’t consider are the causes behind breaking nails. Sometimes that can be brittle nails or dry nails, but there are also treatment and prevention options available that you may not know about.
Until now.
What makes nails more susceptible to breaking?
One of the most common breaking nail causes is brittle nails. Brittle nails are nails that are weak, peel, split, and break easily. The causes for brittle nails typically fall into two categories.
Genetic, Aging, and Medical Factors
This first category includes the factors that are difficult to control, as some of them you may have just been born with. These can all cause or contribute to dry or brittle nails.
Genetics
Aging
Medical Conditions
Environmental Factors
The second category are the environmental factors that can cause brittle nails and dry nails. You have much more control over these factors and can make lifestyle changes that could significantly improve the health of your nails.
Hydration + Water
Chemical Exposures
Weather
Products You Use
What can I do to make my nails healthier to help avoid broken nails?
Think of a brittle nail that tends to break as something akin to overly processed hair that frizzes and has split ends. There are a few simple tips that can really help with your nail health.
First, try to keep your nails short—the smaller surface area will make nails less prone to breaking. If you’re doing anything that gets your hands wets—from dishes to gardening and everything in between—wear gloves. When choosing a nail file, go with glass. And if you’re picking a polish remover, choose one that is acetone-free if possible. Finally, take a nail polish holiday and consider putting color or clear polish on your nails every other week—with a nail treatment in between.
We condition and protect our hair to avoid these issues and we can try some similar tactics with nails. To help avoid future broken nails, choosing products with the right ingredients is key. The Dr. Dana Nail Renewal System is a 3-step nail system that treats brittle nails with formulas backed by science. Nails look glossy and shiny in just 10 minutes. But there is no polish involved and the whole process is mess-free. You can use this manicure-in-a-box to treat or prevent brittle, weak nails or to simply create a chic, long-lasting lustrous shine without the use of polish or harmful chemicals.
What should I do when I inevitably break a nail?
No matter how you like to wear your nails—polished or unpolished, long or more trimmed—a common wish many of us have is that our nails grow faster. From the person trying to fight the urge to bite their nails to the one who broke a nail so short they’re in pain, there are a million reasons to want nail growth. Unfortunately, it’s not something you can just manifest into existence. But understanding the science of the nails, the nail matrix, the causes of brittle nails and more can help you support healthy nail growth.
Let’s get into some of the basics first.
NAIL GROWTH
On average, how much do healthy nails grow per month?
A recent study showed average fingernail growth rates to be 3.47 mm/month in comparison to average toenails at 1.62 mm/month. However, even healthy nail growth rates tend to decrease as we age—and other studies have shown statistically significant differences in growth rates before and after the age of 40.
Aging aside, what are possible reasons for slow nail growth?
There are several variables that are associated with slower nail growth. For example, the nails can grow more slowly on your non-dominant hand. Nails grow faster in warmer months, so you may also notice seasonal changes. In addition, certain illnesses, like yellow nail syndrome, and compromised circulation can slow nail growth.
How does poor circulation affect nail growth?
Like other parts of your body, nails receive their oxygen and nutrient supply from the blood stream. (However, it is a myth that “nails breath.”) Therefore, compromised blood flow to the fingers and toes—or peripheral perfusion—makes it harder for the delivery of rich, oxygenated blood to the nails.
Dr. Dana says she has even observed slower growth rates and the yellowing of the nails in patients whose hands are immobilized in a cast, as compared to the non-injured side, or in patients who are paralyzed on one side. These types of examples support the notion that compromised circulation can make nails grow slower.
But there are many other medical conditions that can lead to poor circulation and thus slow nail growth. Raynaud’s phenomenon—which causes blood vessels in the hands and feet to spasm, especially in response to cold—is a classic example. Anyone suffering from a compromised lymphatic system, which can occur after radiation or certain malignancies, may also see a slowing of nail growth. Lifestyle can also be a factor. If you’re on the sedentary side, you may make your nails grow more slowly.
SUPPORT HEALTHY NAIL GROWTH
What are some easy ways to help your nails grow faster?
One way you help nails grow is to improve circulation. A healthy, active lifestyle is a big contributing factor, and of course promotes all sorts of other positive behaviors. But you can give yourself regular hand massages to help get the blood flowing to your fingers, as well.
The Dr. Dana Nail Treatment System incorporates a natural ingredient, Pistacia Lentiscus, which is derived from the sap of an evergreen tree that grows in the Mediterranean. Dr. Dana was intrigued by studies she had read on this Pistacia Lentiscus that indicated it might support nail growth. And although we have not done formal growth studies on the product, customers (and Dr. Dana herself) have shared their anecdotal observations about their healthy, faster growing nails.
What can I do to make my nails generally healthier?
There are a few things you can do to support your nail health and thus help your nails grow. First, try to limit your exposure to super hot or super cold weather. Exposure to extreme temperatures creates a flux nail cell state, constantly expanding and contracting. This puts the nail under tremendous strain and is especially relevant in the winter when we are often moving from cold to heated environments.
Protect Your Hands
You should also think about wearing gloves if your hands are going to have prolonged exposure to water. Nails absorb water even more easily than our skin. When that water is constantly moving in and out of the nails, it puts a tremendous strain on the delicate nail cells, or oncocytes. This can result in weakening, softening and breakage. Your cuticles can become dehydrated which makes them more likely to lift and separate, causing hangnails or openings where infections can more easily gain entry.
Treat Your Cuticles
It’s also very important to use a cuticle oil or treatment. A healthier cuticle means a healthier nail. This is one of the most important ways to keep the entire nail healthy because the cuticle is the nail’s natural protective seal. A dry, dehydrated or non-existent cuticle will result in a compromised cuticle seal, potentially allowing water and infections to enter the nail. This subsequently may cause an inflammation and infection of the skin surrounding the nail called paronychia.
Exfoliate and Condition Your Nails
We condition and protect our hair to avoid frizz and split ends and we can try some similar tactics with nails. This makes them less brittle, thus less likely to break and more apt to grow. The Dr. Dana Nail Renewal System is a 3-step nail system that treats nails with formulas backed by science.
Essential exfoliation is an important part of this process because it removes superficial damage and dead nail cells at the surface. This means you can more effectively treat and moisturize the nail, bringing “the canvas” back to a healthier state. Think of it as a facial for the nail. This is how the Dr. Dana Nail Renewal System works. Steps one and two are the exfoliation process, while step three is the deep hydrating and strengthening treatment. Plus, your nails look fantastic when you’re done—in under 10 minutes.
But there is no polish involved and the whole process is mess-free. You can use this manicure-in-a-box to treat or prevent brittle, weak nails or to simply create a chic, long-lasting lustrous shine without the use of polish or harmful chemicals.
Use Glass Files
And if you do break a nail, you can help it grow back stronger by using a glass file, like the Dr. Dana Precision Glass Nail File. This counts for general nail shaping and filing too.
Here at Dr. Dana, we believe that taking care of your nail health is just as important as that of your skin, hair, and the rest of your body. Strong, healthy nails are an indicator of a strong, healthy body. Plus, they look great. There are so many contributing factors when you talk about how to keep nails healthy—from which nail polish remover you choose to how you protect your nails while doing simple household chores like washing dishes.
Dr. Dana Stern has devoted her dermatological career to focusing on nail health—and that includes ways to protect nails and keep them from weakening or becoming brittle.
Let’s break down some of the most common questions when it comes to nail health so that you have a better understanding of how to get strong, healthy nails.
Is it true that if you want healthy nails you need to leave them polish free for the same amount of time as you wore the polish?
This is a random and arbitrary rule of thumb because everyone reacts differently to nail polish. There are many different polish brands and even the way polish is applied and removed can influence how the nails recover.
If your nails are tolerating prolonged use of nail polish, then go ahead and enjoy. But do note that a basic polish should typically be worn for about one week on the fingernails and two to four weeks on the toenails.
Weekly manicures do not necessarily cause damage to everyone’s nails. However, certain nail enhancements such as gel polish and acrylic removal can significantly thin the nail plate. This can cause brittle nails that are damaged and weaker than usual. That may indicate it’s time for you to take a polish holiday and work on your nail health. Using products that contain formaldehyde can also weaken nails because they cause the nail to harden and stiffen, preventing flexibility and often leading to separation and breakage.
What are the specific signs to look for to know if I need a nail polish holiday?
How can I keep my nails healthy between polish applications?
In between polish applications, it is important to care, maintain and prevent nail damage just like we do with our skin. Essential exfoliation is an important part of this process because it removes superficial damage and dead nail cells at the surface. This means you can more effectively treat and moisturize the nail, bringing “the canvas” back to a healthier state. Think of it as a facial for the nail.
This is how the Dr. Dana Nail Renewal System works. Steps 1 and 2 are the exfoliation process, while Step 3 is the deep hydrating treatment.
What are the best ways to keep your nail beds healthy and prevent infections?
There are numerous polishes out there that are labeled 10-free, 5-free, etc. What are the top ingredients to avoid to protect nails when choosing a polish formula?
Here are Dr. Dana’s ingredients to avoid for healthy nails:
Does wearing a base coat help prevent nail damage?
Absolutely. Wearing a base coat is an important step for any manicure because it provides a base protective layer. It is also crucial for polish adhesion and therefore for the life of your manicure.
What other maintenance tips do you recommend to keep your nails healthy?
Do:
Don’t:
It’s more common than you might think.
The thing about talking about health, of the nail variety and otherwise, is that sometimes we have to discuss matters that might not be our favorites. But they’re important and we should discuss them without shame or embarrassment.
That’s very true when it comes to onychomycosis, which is more commonly known as nail fungus. As a board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Dana Stern knows that treating nail fungus is a huge concern for her patients and always a hot topic of conversation among professional nail technicians because they are often the ones on the front line.
Nail fungus is actually one of the most commonly treated nail issues in this country, making up half of all nail disorders. 35 million people in the US are affected and the prevalence is especially high amongst the elderly and diabetic populations. Interestingly only 6.3 million people are actually diagnosed and of those, only 2.5 million end up being treated. We hope to see that change. Another issue is that onychomycosis is also very commonly misdiagnosed. In fact, only 50% of abnormal, thick, discolored toenails are due to fungus! This is why it is important to have an accurate diagnosis and a clear understanding of when it is appropriate to seek medical attention.
The medical term “onychomycosis” refers to fungal nail infections. Nail fungus can be caused by dermatophytes such as Trichophyton rubrum (the leading cause of nail fungus in the U.S.), yeast, or non-dermatophyte molds.
Why is it that some people get nail fungus and others seem immune when we are, in reality, all exposed? There are many factors that play into whether you are susceptible to a fungal nail infection. The most common risk factors include: increasing age, diabetes, suppressed immunity, excessive sweating (hyperhidrosis), poor circulation. and nail dystrophy (irregular growing nails). In addition, we believe that there is genetic susceptibility as well. Nail fungus can also be acquired from fungal infections at other areas of the body. For example, athlete’s foot (tinea pedis) can spread, causing toenail fungus. This is especially true if the nail is damaged or lifted. Most toenail fungus begins in the skin near the nail, as opposed to the actual hard nail. Athlete’s foot is essentially a fungal reservoir that has the potential to take up residence in the nail.
Although the appearance of nail fungus can vary, generally the nail appears yellow, brown, or white, thickened, and crumbly. There is often significant debris under the nail and the surrounding nail folds and cuticle area can be redder than normal.
Fungal infections of the nail can be challenging to treat. They are quite persistent and even when effectively treated, they can have high recurrence rates and not everyone responds to a single treatment. This may make you wonder if it’s even worth it to treat them and the answer is a resounding YES and here’s why.
Nail fungus can spread to other areas of the body such as the hands, legs, and back. In addition, those who take medications that weaken the immune system—like steroids or chemotherapy—are particularly susceptible. While most healthy adults who ignore nail fungus will probably not have any immediate issues, over time, fungal infection can cause the nails to become thickened, brittle, discolored and even painful. Additionally, the longer one waits to treat nail fungus, the harder it becomes to treat it.
And don’t forget that nail fungus can be contagious. In a nail salon setting, a client with fungus can spread it to other clients if proper disinfection precautions are not followed. This becomes especially relevant when porous materials such as files and toe separators are reused. Proper disinfection between clients is also especially relevant for pedicure foot baths, so make sure your salon is making the space safe for you.
While a proper diagnosis is key, it can be tricky, even for medical professionals. The nail needs to be tested either by looking for hyphae under a microscope or by being sent to a lab for special staining or even newer techniques such as PCR (Polymerase chain reaction) where the DNA of the organism can be identified.
As far as treatments go, there is typically a choice between topical or oral options. Oral agents, like Terbinafine, tend to have more potential side effects even though these drugs have been on the market for a long time and are generally well tolerated and safe when used with the appropriate patient. We now have some newer topical FDA-approved antifungal therapy prescriptions including Efinaconazole and Tavaborole. Both of these options are more effective than over-the-counter and naturopathic methods and are generally safe with very minimal side effects.
If you search for a treatment for toenail fungus online, you will come across a ton of natural and alternative approaches. Typically, Dr. Dana recommends conventional FDA-approved therapies, as we have more studies and data for these treatments. However, we can’t ignore the costs of topical antifungal prescriptions which can be cost prohibitive and oftentimes are not covered by insurance. So alternative approaches can be a better option than no treatment at all. If you do decide to go the natural or alternative treatment route, see a dermatologist if the treatment is not working after four months for toenails and two months for fingernails.
What happens to your nail health over time—and how to improve it.
While most of us are extremely familiar with skin and hair care regimens designed to help us maintain a youthful appearance, when it comes to nails, aging is not typically a regular part of the conversation. But your nails do in fact age, too, and it’s important to understand what’s going on with your nail health—just as much as every other part of your body and mind.
Genetics, nutritional deficiencies, environmental influences, and general wear and tear can cause nails to undergo physiological changes over time. The good news is that most of these changes can be easily addressed—it’s mostly a matter of identifying concerning nail signs and knowing how to spot the signs of aging nails.
What should you be on the lookout for—and how can you treat nail symptoms?
Nail Ridging
As we age, the area where the nail begins (the matrix) slowly starts to become thinner, resulting in vertical depressions in the nail called onychorrhexis. There are many age-related factors that can contribute to ridging, including compromised circulation or less efficient blood flow to our extremities. For some, these ridges are barely noticeable, but others may see some significant markings.
The safest and most effective way to smooth ridges is with a three-way buffer, like the Priming Wand that’s included in the Dr. Dana Nail Renewal System. It’s designed to gently buff surface abnormalities, such as ridges, resulting in a more even nail plate. Caution when choosing a buffer, as many are designed for acrylic nails and can be too abrasive for natural nails. If ridging is severe or presents horizontally, you should talk to your doctor.
Brittle Nails
For many of us, nails will become more brittle with age. This can be the result of years of exposure to water and chemicals, frequent use of nail polish remover, and genetics. Taking regular care of the nails is the best way to treat these type of age-related nail conditions.
Using our Nail Renewal System weekly is one of the most effective ways to treat brittle, aging nails. The 3-step treatment includes glycolic acid to exfoliate and remove surface damage, a natural nail strengthener to reinforce delicate nail cells, and plant extracts for deep hydration and antioxidant protection.
Fingernail Dulling
Unfortunately, our nails naturally lose their luster with age. Using a high-shine topcoat is a quick fix, but in order to truly restore their natural shine, you need to treat the nails. Exfoliating surface damage is the only way to repair the nail and restore its youthful glow. Step 1 in the Nail Renewal System uses glycolic acid to exfoliate the nail plate and instantly boost natural shine.
Slow Nail Growth
According to various studies, age related changes begin to occur in our nails after the age of 40. In fact, nail changes such as a slower nail growth rates tend to happen around this age. When our nails don’t grow out as quickly, the effects of environmental exposure can show up more significantly in the overall appearance of the nails, as well as affecting their strength. Keeping the cuticle intact and hydrated will help you optimize nail growth because the cuticle overlies the nail matrix, the anatomical structure that becomes the nail plate.
Nail Separation from the Nail Bed
Nail separation, referred to as onycholysis, occurs when our nails don’t firmly adhere to the nail beds. That means that even the slightest trauma, like overly vigorous cleaning under the nail with an orange stick, can result in the nail lifting off the nail bed. It’s best to see your doctor if you experience this type of change in your nails.
Easy tips for your tips
There are many reasons you might opt to try some artificial nails, of the press-on or acrylic variety. Perhaps you just want to play around with your aesthetic or you have trouble growing your actual nails to the length you’d like. But one thing is for sure, the health of your natural nails underneath is of utmost importance.
The wear and tear that can happen to your nails from press on nails is essentially damaged superficial nail cells—or onychocytes—that have separated from their tidy protective structure. These damaged patches are called keratin granulations. While you are enjoying your new look, your adhesive-drenched onychocytes are becoming dry and dehydrated. When the glue is removed, some of these damaged nail cells are removed along with it, while other damaged, dehydrated nail cells remain at the nail surface. This process will result in uneven, discolored. and peeling nails and is especially common, after a long successful press on application.
Dr. Dana recommends applying a protective coat to the nail prior to applying the nail glue. This can be a base coat or another polish. Polish can absolutely be protective and it is generally the removal process that leads to the dehydration and potential damage.
Any barrier that sits between the nail plate and the adhesive is going to provide some protection to the nail plate. FYI, the nail bed is the soft tissue beneath the hard nail plate, so when we talk about nail damage from nail adhesives/glue, we are referring to damage to the nail plate aka “the nail” and not the nail bed itself. This is also why when nails are polished with basic polish, a good quality base coat will also offer some protection to the underlying nail.
Many have asked us if a glitter polish is even more helpful in this scenario. Glitter nail polish is particularly adhesive and difficult to remove, so while it may offer a somewhat stronger barrier of protection than a typical clear or base coat, the amount of acetone needed in the nail polish remover might actually negate the protective effects in the end, as acetone is extremely dehydrating to the nail plate, cuticle and surrounding skin. In general, when it comes to nail beautification, everything is a trade off!
Don’t overdo it on the adhesive—a little goes a long way! You will generally not need more than the size of a small glass bead. You might also want to consider using a glue or adhesive tab, which may last for a shorter period of time but cause less damage. These rubbery gel double-sided adhesives tend to not work nearly as well as glue, but you will avoid the risks of allergy because there is no liquid glue to seep into the skin. These adhesives usually don’t last more than a few days, but they are great for a weekend look.
Yes, there is a risk that you could be allergic to nail glue and if you are, the damage could be long term and irreversible.
Now, let’s get into why this might happen. Press-on nails stick to the nail plate with either an acrylate-based glue or acrylate-based nail tab. With nail stickers, the acrylate is embedded in the underside of the product and, theoretically, only comes into contact with the nail and not the surrounding skin. With press-ons, the glue can more easily seep outside of the perimeter of the nail and make contact with the cuticle and surrounding skin.
So, why is this a big deal? Acrylates are potentially problematic in that they can cause allergic reactions if they come into contact with the skin. These reactions are relatively uncommon amongst nail customers of professional salons because most enhancements are applied by a professional, licensed nail technician who is very aware of these potential reactions. However, with the current uptick in do-it-yourself manis, we are likely to be seeing more of these reactions as the typical at-home manicurist is not necessarily aware of these concerns.
There are two types of potential reactions you should look out for. The first is an irritant contact dermatitis, which is a reaction that occurs immediately upon exposure. That could mean a burning or pain and some inflammation, redness, and possibly even blistering and lifting of the nail bed. If you feel a burning sensation, you should immediately remove the press-on with hot, soapy water and nail and cuticle oil. Do not try to reapply the nail! The other possible reaction is a delayed hypersensitivity which might occur after repeated exposure. Over time a person’s immune system learns to recognize and react to that particular chemical, so even the smallest drop can set off a full inflammatory reaction. Certain people are more prone to this, like those with eczema, who tend to have a compromised skin barrier already.
Follow these simple steps to help mitigate damage to your nails.
We all love a good pedicure, but outside of that, how much time are you devoting to caring for your feet and toenails? Probably a lot less than the rest of your self-care routines for your face or your hair or fitness. Translation: Most of us aren’t doing enough.
While regular professional pedicures are essential, feet really must be cared for in between treatments. So where to begin? First, you need to wash them regularly and practice good foot hygiene. We know that sounds obvious, but many people just let the soap suds run down in the shower and hope that will suffice. In reality, feet need to be cleaned especially thoroughly because they are different in ways that make them a unique habitat for supporting microbes, that include odor-causing bacteria. Washing regularly, can support simple health benefits by helping to limit environments for bacterial growth.
Once your feet are clean, there are two essential steps for good foot care.
First is exfoliation—removing dead skin cells and callus from the feet is critical. Calluses occur from friction and are largely due to the biomechanical properties of how our feet make contact within our shoes. Leaving some callus is okay, because if you take off too much skin you may cause bleeding and pain. Exfoliation should never hurt! Callus is best removed mechanically with abrasives, but avoid pumices as they can harbor all sorts of bacteria. If you are going to use pumice, purchase inexpensively and in bulk so that you only use each one a single time. You can also use a foot file with removable grit. If you add an exfoliating scrub with sea salts to this step—perhaps in the bath while soaking—you’ll end up with baby soft feet.
You can also use Epsom Salts as soaks to support healthy blood flow and decrease swelling and inflammation. The effectiveness of sea salt soaks is more difficult to quantify as these products vary tremendously in their compositions.
After you exfoliate, step two is proper hydration and callus prevention. We suggest using a cream that contains urea which acts as a very efficient dead skin remover—and helps prevent new callus from forming. Urea creams were once only available by prescription, but there are now many over the counter options. You should also apply an everyday moisturizer which helps with prevention and combats dry skin. Look for one containing shea which can help seal in moisture. We also love the calming benefits of lavender oil and hyaluronic acid, which can mimic the skin’s natural lipid barrier and offer protection.
Once your feet are nice and soft, turn your attention to your toenails. The best way to groom your toenail cuticles is to give your feet that good soak we talked about earlier and then push the softened cuticles back with an orange stick or cuticle pusher. Any excess hangnail can be snipped with a sterile, sharp cuticle nipper. Remember the cuticle is the nail’s natural protective seal. It’s like the grout in your shower between your tiles. Without it, imagine what would grow if water seeped in between! When it comes to trimming the toenails, cut straight across—as opposed to on a curve—as this will prevent embedding or ingrowns.
As you begin to pay more attention to your feet and notice you are experiencing more foot pain, excessive callus, or bruises on your toenails, it is very possible that your shoes are not fitting properly. Many adults don’t realize that our feet change too, even your shoe size. At one point in time you may have been a size 8, but may be an 8.5 or even 9 now. You might need to be re-measured. And generally speaking, shoes with a somewhat wide toe box are ideal. “Reasonable” shoes do not have pointy toes, nor do they have super high heels—and we all need proper arch support.
Follow these simple steps to keep your feet soft and reap all health benefits of an excellent foot care regimen.
There is so much information being thrown at us all day every day, but how do we filter through the noise and know what is real and what is fake news when it comes to nails? Look no further than The Dr. Dana Blog, On the Nail, where we share expert content about nail health, unique nail beauty tips, and the most up-to-date nail health and science news!
Nail Care Don’t: When it comes to filing your nails, not all files are created equal. Did you know that common cardboard emery boards create microscopic tears in the nail surface that lead to fissures and peeling? The fissures can also cause nail polish to prematurely chip, too—not ideal!
Nail Care Do: Use a glass nail file instead of an emery board nail file. Glass files have a gentle glass face that creates a clean perfect edge at the nail edge every time. With this gentle tool, you can file in any direction you please. A huge perk? Your nails will peel less and nail polish will go on smoother and last longer. Sign me up!
If you notice that your nails are starting to look damaged or you have observed show white patches, peeling, or splitting, it may be time to take a nail polish holiday.
Nail Care Don’t: The worst thing you can do for nail health is to camouflage the damage. When you see that your nails look unhealthy, your innate response may be to cover them up—but Dr. Dana advises against this ….because your nails are a window into health and disease. Chronic camouflage of the nail may hide a health issue that needs to be addressed.
Nail Care Do: It is time to take a break from color and all that dehydrating polish remover. Pull back the polish reins and treat your nails with some extra TLC. Look for nail products that are rich in phospholipids—like sunflower oil—and ones that contain exfoliating keratolytics. This will remove nail surface damage and allow for the more effective absorption of hydrating ingredients.
Please pay attention to product ingredients! Many nail products that tout themselves as nail treatments or hardeners contain formaldehyde or formalin, which can be very damaging to the nail. Formaldehyde will initially harden the nail; however, with time, the nail will become paradoxically brittle and is at risk for separation of the nail from the bed (onycholysis).
Nail Care Don’t: Avoid products that contain formaldehyde. This common nail strengthening ingredient, can also cause severe allergic reactions at the surrounding nail folds, where the skin can become irritated, swollen, and painful.
If the nail strengthener you are considering requires removal, then it is by definition a polish and not a nail treatment.
Nail Care Do: There are many nail products out there that are both effective and safe for your health. Look for products that contain natural ingredients. Nail products that are formulated by experts and backed by science are a no-brainer. Your health—and nails!—will thank you.
Nail Care Don’t: Avoid cutting or removing the cuticle. The cuticle is the nail’s natural protective seal. It is like the grout in between the tiles in your shower because it prevents water from entering the nail unit. This amazing membranous structure is the key to a healthy nail.
Nail Care Do: Instead of trimming or chemical removal, gently push back the cuticle after a warm shower or bath. Keep cuticles hydrated with oils or ointments that are rich in essential oils. Creams don’t absorb into the cuticle as well.
Nail Care Don’t: For those heading to the salon, be sure that single-use products such as toe separators, files, and abrasives are used once and disposed of. These porous items can harbor and transmit bacteria and fungus, contributing to fungal infection! Do not let technicians reuse a product on you that you did not see them either disinfect or take out from a new, sterilized package.
Nail Care Do: As for the clipper you use at home, do make sure the blade is sharp—a dull blade will cause tears and splits in the nail plate. If you have a tendency to develop ingrown toenails, cut the toenails straight across as opposed to on a curve to prevent embedding.
And let’s please set the record straight on this… Nails don’t breathe! Rather, nails derive their oxygen and nutrients from good, healthy blood flow. What does that mean? Healthy circulation to the hands and feet will optimize nail health and beauty. Think cardio, brisk walks and anything that gets your heart rate up. Hand and foot massage is also a great way to improve blood flow to the fingers and toes.
Spring is finally here and soon enough we will be trading our heavy winter boots for sandals and paying more attention to our toenails. Have you ever wondered why after a long winter of Christmas cranberry toenails, your nails can take on a yellow hue?
While yellow polish can be fun and vibrant, if your toenails are giving off a lemony vibe and there’s no polish on them, it’s time to determine if the issue is cosmetic or suggestive of something possibly more serious.
One of the most common causes of yellow fingernails and toenails is from secondary staining from nail polish. Because the porosity of the nail is variable, some people just inherently have more porous nails that are more prone to pigment absorption and thus secondary yellowing.
Another factor is the dye content of the polish. Not all polish dyes are alike. Generally, the darker the color, the more the pigment has an opportunity to migrate and leach into the nail plate to cause yellowing.
While darker colors tend to be to blame more often, this phenomenon can also occur with lighter colors.
Another common cause of polish induced nail yellowing is from polish remover. Polish remover dissolves polish which can result in the migration of pigments that then can leach into the nail plate and result in a yellow discoloration of the nails.
Theoretically the longer the soak, the more leaching that will potentially occur so things like soak off gels that require a good 10 minute soak can be detrimental.
How do we distinguish polish induced yellowing from other causes of nail yellowing? When the cause is purely from polish, the nail will generally be healthy looking and intact but have a yellow hue throughout.
The surface will be smooth and a normal thickness as opposed to fungal nails where there is thickening or subungual (under the nail) crumbling. And the cuticle will have a healthy, intact barrier. Importantly, there will be a history of prior polish application.
Polish induced nail yellowing is a cosmetic issue and the good news is that there are several options for treatment. The first is to take a nail polish holiday and to avoid polish application for 2-4 weeks.
For those who want a treatment solution, severe stains can be lightened by using a dilution of Hydrogen Peroxide.
At home remedy:
Alternatively, you can use a whitening toothpaste as these are formulated with Hydrogen Peroxide.
To prevent polished induced staining it is important to keep the nail healthy. Over filing the surface can theoretically lead to increase pigment leaching into the nail.
Don’t forget to use a good quality base coat prior to polish application. Lastly, try to remove polish quickly. If you need to rub for 10 minutes then the pigments have a better opportunity to leach into the nail.
Other “non-medical” causes of nail yellowing include staining from ingredients such as tobacco, tanning products or Henna. In these cases a thorough exposure history will usually uncover the yellowing culprit.
There are several causes of yellow fingernails and toenails that are due to medical conditions namely fungus, onycholysis and yellow nail syndrome.
Nail fungus (onychomycosis) affects approximately 35 million people in the United States and these infections are far more common on the toenails. Toenails can appear thick, yellow, and crumbly.
Proper diagnosis and treatment are essential to be able to achieve resolution. Most toenail fungus starts off as athlete’s foot, and then enters the nail when there is an injury or lifting of the nail. Even overly aggressive pedicures can result in nail lifting and pose a risk.
Speaking of nail lifting, onycholysis, or separation of the nail plate from the underlying nail bed is another potential cause of nail yellowing. This common condition can be observed on both the fingernails and toenails.
When the nail lifts off of the nail bed, the nail will appear as a white to yellow opacity in the area of separation. Although there are many causes of nail separation, the most common include overly aggressive cleaning under the nail, trauma from tight shoes or activities that cause the toe to hit the tip of the shoe, and more rarely, inflammatory conditions such as nail psoriasis.
Treatment will usually include adherence to a strict irritant avoidance regimen where nail polish remover and exposure to household chemicals and water is avoided. Polish removers are strong solvents that will cause irritation to the delicate nail bed tissue when there is an opening under the nail plate.
Additionally, a prescription topical anti-yeast treatment will often be needed and so you will need to seek medical attention from a physician.
Yellow Nail Syndrome is another non-cosmetic cause of nail yellowing. In this more rare condition, the toenails appear thick and have a yellow to green tinge and frequently lack a cuticle as well as lunula (the half moon that is usually visible on the thumb nail and great toenail).
Yellow Nail Syndrome is due to failure of the nail to grow sufficiently and is associated with lymphatic disease as well as lung disease or malignancy. The underlying disorder must be treated but tends to be chronic.
Now that you have a better understanding of what causes yellow nails, you should be better equipped to manage the issue. And just in time for sandal season!
